Archive for the 'Projects' Category

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Operation: Turtle Rescue

Mrs. Rocket Punch ordered a turtle-shaped nightlight for the kids. Turn it on and light shines through the shell and a star field is projected to the ceiling and wall. It however arrived with the shell cracked.

So I figured I can weasel out some goodwill from Mrs. Rocket Punch if I fixed this thing.

The patient:

The grievous injury:

The shell can’t be removed easily so work on it had to be done with the plush section attached. I wrapped a plastic bag around the plush section and masked off all the openings on the shell. First round of putty is then put on.

I went through at least 3 rounds of puttying. In the end, I used a combination of Revell Plasto, Tamiya Putty, Superglue + talcum powder and Milliput epoxy putty to fix all the cracks.

After a primer coat of white I preshaded the shell with Vallejo black gray.

Little Rocket Punch asked for 3 colors for the shell so I sprayed Model Master Acryl’s Insignia Blue, Insignia Red and Insignia Yellow. I sprayed Flat White as a base coat over the preshade before spraying the yellow.

And I’m more or less done! All that’s left is to leave the colors to cure about 24 hours and then a layer of Future Floor Polish as a final coat.

Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6

Kit Info
Manufacturer: Otaki
Scale: 1/48
Media: Injection Plastic

Joining Max my friend at Plamo with this. The idea is to have a long term groupbuild, with the common theme being World War 2 prop planes. One after another.

The Otaki Bf 109G-6 is a 1980s vintage kit. However, from what I’ve read, it’s an excellent kit with very good fit. It was also very cheap. I got it or only $7 SGD from a fire sale. :)

The decals are more or less useless. It’s now yellow AND dried up. Markings for 2 aircraft. I’m looking to replace this with an aftermarket set.

The cockpit is very basic but with the canopy closed, I’m not too concerned.

I decided to leave out the underwing gun pods. This means I have to fill up the attachment points. I first added a blanking plate inside the wing. Putty to follow.

No need for putty here! The fit of the upper wing is excellent! I’m very impressed.

The canopy was dipped in Future and I spent about 1.5 hours masking it. World War 2 canopies… brrr…

I then quickly cut off the other parts and checked the fit of the other parts. Looks like a Bf 109 to me!

Cleaned up the landing gear and miscellaneous parts and onward with the primer to check for parts that need to be fixed. Doesn’t look too bad.

So far, I’m liking this kit. It might be old, but it’s giving me a lot less headaches than the newer modern kits.

Boeing F/A-18A Hornet NSAWC ‘TOPGUN 42′

Kit Info
Manufacturer: Hasegawa
Scale: 1/48
Media: Injection Plastic

Night-time chatting with buddies and we ended up deciding to do a groupbuild together on Plamo. This time it’s an Aggressor/Adversary aircraft groupbuild. We affectionately call it ‘SMLJ Aggressor?‘. :D

So what’s my entry? It’s a Boeing F/A-18A flown by NSAWC (Naval Strike and Air Warfare Center) as ‘TOPGUN 42′ in 1995-1996. This will be Hasegawa’s F/A-18A kit with Fightertown Decals’ Ultimate Hornet Adversaries 1 decals. Hasegawa’s Hornets have the reputation as the definitive model kit for this aircraft. Let’s see…

First up, the cockpit as usual. This is given a gray color with the control panels in black gray. The buttons and switches were drybrushed with light gray. The MFDs were given a couple of drops of Future for gloss. Since I’m modeling the aircraft with the engine off, the MFDs are correctly ‘black’.

I decided to replace the kit ejection seat with the resin one from Legend Production. A definite improvement methinks. The resin seat’s slightly smaller but it looks fine in the cockpit.

The basic construction was quite straightforward.

Some interesting details of the kit include the (tiny) support struts for the intakes.

The ‘A’ variant has reinforcement plates at the base of the vertical tailfins.

Hasegawa provides white metal landing gear which are really nice. The nose gear required some work though. The catapult strut and the part of the structure is styrene. The nose gear also came bent but was easily corrected.

The wheels and part of the main landing gear struts are styrene.

There’s also a photo-etched detail for the nose gear bay. There’s only one for one side of the bay though.

Now for some problems. First up, the nose to fuselage fit isn’t perfect. It’s not too bad however.

There’s an injection pin mark right smack in the middle of the topside of the wing. Luckily it doesn’t get in the way of any of the fine details.

There’s a gap when the ladder is in the closed position.

The slimelights at the rear fuselage don’t line up properly. This is even after I’ve added plastic sheet on the inside as a guide for the joining of the upper and lower fuselage.

There’s some gaps inside the main landing gear bay which can’t be fixed easily.

This kit was originally meant for a combat-duty F/A-18A from VFA-97 but for Aggressor duties, aircraft tend to fly without pylons. So the holes for the pylons I have opened will need to be closed. Putty time! :P

And now we come to the major problem with this kit. Besides the lack of full trunking for the intakes (you peek into the intake and it goes nowhere), the fit leaves much to be desired. Both sides left big steps between the intake lips and the engine compartment. Some major plastic manipulation will be needed here.

RZ-019 Double Sworder

Kit Info
Manufacturer: TakaraTomy
Scale: 1/72
Media: Injection Plastic

While waiting for the VF-22′s gloss coats to dry, I decided to start painting on something that’s been on the back burner. I’ve had this kit primed for a very long time.

A minor detail I added was drilling out the gun barrels.

The pilot was painted with Vallejo acrylics. I decided to color the flightsuits orange. They were given a light black gray wash and abit of drybrushing with light gray to pop the details.

Painting begins!

Vallejo sky blue as the base color.

And Vallejo pastel blue as the top color.

Now for the paint to cure properly…

General Galaxy VF-22S Sturmvogel II

Time to gloss up the kit to prepare for decals! For the top, I sprayed on Krylon Preserve it!. It however didn’t layer on very smoothly. It’s smooth to the touch, but it doesn’t LOOK smooth… strange…

I decided to try using Future Floor Polish for the bottom. Now I’ve never had good experiences airbrushing Future (it spatters when used straight from the bottle) so I’ve relegated it to glossing up clear parts by dipping. However, I’ve read that you can thin it 50/50 with Isopropynol Alcohol. So what now? Using my 0.2 airbrush, it did go on very well. Being quite thin, it also did not pool at all. Nice.

A total of 48 hours was needed for both layers to cure properly before decaling can commence. Hasegawa decals have a reputation of being thick and this one’s no different. Although I have to say the small warning markings are easier to handle because of that.

I had a choice of 3 different noseart. I picked the babe who’s most naked

General Galaxy VF-22S Sturmvogel II

So after having a talk with some buddies, I decided to repaint the bottom color of the VF-22S. I originally used Gunship Gray. I replaced this with Vallejo Model Air Black Grey which is basically FS37031. Now it matches the line art more.

I think I like this better! :)

General Galaxy VF-22S Sturmvogel II

Managed to get some work done tonight. I’m on a roll I guess. :)

First I laid blutack around the demarcation lines. I originally laid some masking tape over the darker gray before the blutack to prevent overspray. Too much work though so for the rest I just went straight with blutack.

To make sure I get sharp lines, I had to spray directly perpendicular to the surface. Some touching up here and there will be required but I think the results turned out quite well.

As usual with acrylic paints, some paint got lifted when I removed the blutack and masking tape. I will need to sand these down and respray.

General Galaxy VF-22S Sturmvogel II

I’ve decided on the color scheme! Nope, not going with splinter camo this time… :D

For the darker shade of gray, I’m using Life Color Light Gray (FS 36251).

The camo was done freehand.

This is actually my first time I’m airbrushing Life Color and I have to say that while it hand brushes very well, I find ease of use for airbrushing to be in between Vallejo and Model Master Acryl.

I didn’t have to be as precise when thinning it than Vallejo. But even at 15psi, it dries a lot faster on the airbrush tip than Vallejo so I ended up having to do a lot of cleaning of the tip with a wet cotton bud. Model Master Acryl is much easier to thin and doesn’t dry at the tip as much.

I’m considering making the camo demarcation sharper. First though, I’ll let everything dry first.