I’ve heard rumblings of this and was surprised that it wasn’t announced at Shizouka 2017, but here it is after all. Bandai has labeled it as ‘Perfect Grade’ which means it’ll probably include all the bells and whistles, including the light-up bits. Based on their Star Wars products so far, this will be a gorgeous kit.
It’s going to cost… glurk… 40,000 JPY. More details soon. Meanwhile, a lot more pictures on Taghobby.
This is quite a surprise. Bandai has announced the Renewal version of the Soul of Chogokin GX-13 Dancouga. I have the original DX Chogokin Dancouga from the 1980s and this one runs circles around that one in all sorts of ways. This Renewal version looks to be more anime-accurate compared to GX-13. Looks real good.
I’ve always wanted to get the original GX-13 Dancouga. In fact, I went as close as holding one in my hands. But sanity reined and I put it back on the shelf. I hope I can resist this one. It’s coming in October for 27,000 JPY.
In the middle of getting bogged down with the fitting issues of my F-5, I decided to get this already snapfitted kit done. As usual, it was a joy to snapfit and 99% of it doesn’t require cement.
Out of the box, this builds into Luke Skywalker’s Red 5 from the Battle of Yavin, and it comes with both decals and stickers for everything. The only detail I added was drilling out the barrels of the laser cannons.
The only pre-painting I did was the pilot and cockpit. When I started this was supposed to be Red 5, so the pilot has the default white helmet.
I however, decided to make my life more difficult and build Wedge Antilles’ Red 2 instead. I found 2 sources online with references for Red 2, including the actual studio model. So armed with the correct color scheme, I first went ahead and repainted the pilot’s helmet into Wedge’s.
The cockpit was a mix of paint and decals with some light dry brushing.
Masking (lots of it), painting and weathering are next.
Sir Roger Moore died today at the ripe old age of 89. He was the first James Bond to me. My first memory of James Bond was The Spy Who Loved Me with the rather cheesy Moonraker being the most memorable (not necessarily best) entry. In fact, The Spy Who Loved Me remains one of my three favorite Bond movies ever.
He was suave, funny with his quips and mostly, always cool. Even when a 6’5 steel-toothed giant was trying to bite his throat off.
Good Night Sir Roger Moore, thanks for being a part of my childhood. Rest well. Oh and f**k cancer.
To prep for painting, I began with masking off the cockpit, adding the HUD and attaching the windscreen.
The instructions called for aluminum for the wheel bays but I only had Model Air Metal Steel on hand. I think it looks close enough.
All the landing gear and doors were also painted steel separately.
The exhausts and engine housings were painted Vallejo Metal Jet Exhaust, left to cure for a day and then masked off. The exhaust cans themselves will be attached during final construction.
I went through a few rounds of checking seemliness and joints, using whatever paint that was available.
Painting begins with a base coat of AK Black Primer.
Then I mottled Model Air Insignia White over the whole surface. I still have the habit of mashing the trigger so my mottling is uneven. Guess I shouldn’t try to tackle WW2 German mottle camouflage just yet.
The F-5 I’m modeling deployed with the 1 brown 2 green South East Asian camouflage. I began the camouflage with free-handing the brown with Model Color US Tan Earth.
My bottle of Model Color is close to a decade old and it took quite a bit of thinning and retarder before my airbrush could spray it. Even so, it sputtered and dried at the tip quite often.
The reference I have for the camouflage is from Twobobs’ 48-216 F-5E PACAF Gomers #2 sheet. Like my previous experience with the F-16 using Twobobs’ decals, the camouflage demarcation lines don’t line up, so I guesstimated some of the lines to line them up better. I used rolls of blutack and backfilled the rest with masking tape.
I used AK Interactive’s Medium Green for the lighter green color. The AK paint, being a newer formula (I believe Vallejo has reformulated their line in recent years) thinned and went on more easily and the mottling shows through more.
I then added more blutack and backfilling with masking tape for the darker green shade. For this I used AK Interactive Dark Green. However, the tone wasn’t darker at all so I added a drop of Model Air Black Grey to darken it.
The color looks good, but I lost almost all the mottling details on the dark green.
I’ll need to do touch-ups next: fix the chipped paint, add definition to some of the demarcation lines, reduce the patchiness of the lighter green and bring back some patchiness to the brown and dark green areas.