Kit Number: 35
Media: Injection Plastic, Rubber
The Iron Kong is a Gorilla-type Zoid deployed by the Zenebas and Guylos Empires in the various wars on Planet Zi. It was the second large-scale Zoid deployed after the Red Horn. Developed to counter the Helic Republic’s Gojulas, the Iron Kong featured strong armor and missiles that allowed it to attack from ranges out of reach by the Gojulas. Its form also allowed it to climb, grab, throw and punch. Slow by most standards, it was still twice as fast as its primary counterpart.
Info from Zoids Wiki
This kit is part of Kotobukiya’s D-Style line of mecha that are chibi-fied: huge heads, small bodies and cute in general. The snapfit parts come molded in color and unlike Bandai’s SD line of kits, most of the limbs are not hollow which is nice. Polycaps are provided for the joints and allows for posing of the kit. The arms have a surprising amount of poseability and the mouth opens. The cockpit with clear visor opens and the figures of Rosso and Viola are included, which indicates that this Iron Kong depicts the unit that appears in Zoids: Chaotic Century. All in all, a fully featured kit.
Parts breakdown is uncomplicated so the build was straightforward. Fit was great (Kotobukiya can be hit or miss). I sanded the sprue marks, filled up the major seamlines and was ready for painting in no time. I decided to ignore the seamline on the arms which will come back and bite me later.
Colors & Markings
I decided to go with the default colors for this build. I started with black primer as a base. Then I sprayed white primer at a 45 degree angle from on top to lighten the areas where the sun hits the subject. The parts were then separated as much as possible into the component colors and painted that way with Model Air Red and Model Air Metal Black Metal. I’m not sure I managed to pull off the effect I want so it’s something to work on in future builds. Anyway it was time to move on.
The backpack, shoulder cannon and what’s usually the rubber pegs on actual Zoids kits were painted Light Grey. The clear parts were given a coat of Future and masked for the next stage. The pilots aren’t visible under the green visor but I gave them a coat of Polished Gold in a call out to the mindriders from the original 1980s Zoids releases.
My usual Raw Umber or Black oil wash would not show up with the dark finish so I decided to try gray this time. I think the results are OK but it definitely can be improved. I then did some filtering with black and white oil paint which resulted in a toning down of the metallic sheen of the Black Metal. At this point, I realized that the finishing made the seamline on the arms more obvious. Since it’s too late to fix I decide to move along.
Right from the beginning, I wanted to finish the Iron Kong in a vignette: thumping its chest on top a pile of ruins. I gathered cork board, a piece of cut credit card, zip ties and various (L, I, square and round) plastic rods. Then it was simply a matter of tearing, cutting, stacking and gluing the pieces to build up the pile. I decided that the metal plate should be brightly colored and it also gave me an opportunity to test out Vallejo’s Chipping Medium. I liked how it turned out as it broke the monotony of the ruins which is all gray and black.
The base itself is the cap from a red aerosol paint can. I thought it needed to be brighter so I gave it a base of white primer and airbrushed Model Air Red on it. Thinking that masking tape might lift the paint off the smooth surface of the cap I wrapped it with clear food wrap. Turns out, even food wrap lifted the paint. Happily though, I liked the effect so I decided to â€˜make lemonade’ and not fix the tears.
After pinning down the Iron Kong with brass rod and super glue, I then gave the whole thing a spray of flat coat. Last on was weathering on the feet with Tamiya Weathering Masters.
This was one of those trouble-free builds save for the base. The results aren’t perfect although I think it does make for a striking display. These Kotobukiya kits are quite fun to build though they are expensive for what you get.
Number 3 of 2017
Brand: Games Workshop
Media: Injection Plastic
The Ultramarines is the XIIIth Legion (out of 20) raised by The Emperor of Mankind during the Unification Wars in the 30th Century. Led by their Primarch Roboute Guilliman, the Ultramarines would grow to have an active fighting strength of a quarter a million Space Marines, the genetically engineered super soldiers who serve and execute The Emperor’s Will. After the events of the Horus Heresy, where the Space Marine Legions were split into much smaller Chapters, the Ultramarines would become the Legion that contributed the most gene-seeds to successor Chapters.
The culture of the Ultramarines is loosely based on the culture of Old Earth’s ancient Roman Empire. They also follow strictly to the codes of the Codex Astartes, which govern the behavior and structure of the Chapters, was introduced to prevent another civil war like the Horus Heresy. The Ultramarines’ colors are Lapis-blue (ie ultramarine), White and Gold.
This is my first figure build and I enjoyed the heck out of it. I don’t wargame but some of these miniatures sure look very cool. So I figured (heh) my first build will be a Space Marine from Games Workshop since I have a box of 10 of them. I can screw up 1 and still have 9 left to mess with. Oh, and they look bad ass too, which helps.
So before I jumped in, I watched a few Youtube videos on miniature painting. I also sought the advise of a friend of mine who’s quite good at it. Armed with enough knowledge I then assembled the figure. Assembly itself was quite straightforward although the parts are quite small. The quality aren’t as refined as Tamigawa, but the details are quite intricate and nicely done.
I primed with black and then direction highlighted with white on the areas which I think will get hit by sunlight the most. Then painting began under a magnifier. While the figure is small, it used a surprisingly large number of colors:
I went with the Ultramarines color scheme because it’s one of the most common scheme in the game. Plus it’s almost all 1 color so that should make it easier. Because my bottle of gold color split, I had to color the Aquila (the chest eagle) and shoulder trims silver instead. It doesn’t look as striking as gold but it’ll do. I was also surprised how long it actually took to paint 1 figure. Hopefully as I get the hang of it it will go faster.
This is also the first time I did a terrain base and I had so much fun with this one. Granted it’s a really small space so it was quite and easy enough. For the base I used the following colors:
My handpainting still needs work for sure. The paint looks thick and rough in the final pics. But I think it turned out quite OK for my first effort. I hope to improve as I go along and I for sure will do more. Figure painting is quite fun and I hope to improve enough to be able to do some convincing skintone soon. In the meantime, I have 9 other helmeted Marines I can build my skills on. Oh and I found even more very good looking miniatures from other wargames like Infinity and Warmachine. My wallet is already shuddering in fear. 😀
Number 3 of 2016
This is the first time I’m doing a terrained base of any kind so like all 21st Century nerd, I went to Youtube to get learn how to do it. I found the EonsOfBattle channel which offered easily followed tips.
So first I fixed the base onto a block of styrofoam so it’s easy to hold (pic 1). Then I put on some glue from a hot glue gun to build up a bit of uneven groundwork. I glued 2 small stones I picked up from the street and some foam bricks with the glue gun to simulate a pile of bricks. After the glue has dried I brushed white glue on all the remaining spaces and added sand (pic 2).
Then it was a coat of Vallejo Model Air Black Grey as a base color (pic 3). After that has dried I drybrushed Model Color Iraqi Sand on the erâ€¦ sand. This was also given a wash from Model Color Wash Brown (pic 4).
I then drybrushed the stones with Model Color Medium Sea Grey and Light Grey to bring out details (pic 5). For the bricks, I drybrushed Model Color Foundation White (pic 6). The stones and the bricks were then given a wash of Model Color Wash Black in the recesses. To add some color I then added a few small clumps of green foliage. These were trimmed to shape with scissors (pic 7 and 8).
I then drilled a hole into the bricks and friction mounted the figure.
I’ll paint up the sides of the base, flat coat everything and gloss up the eyes again as the last steps but I’m essentially done.
The box comes with a set of decals with a ton of choices of markings. I decided to go with an arrow on the right shoulder and the Ultramarines insignia on the left. To prep for them I brushed on some Future.
Meantime, I painted the Purity Seal with Transparent Red on top of Foundation White for the seal and Desert Yellow over Sand Light for the parchment. Both were given a Vallejo Model Wash Brown wash and drybrushed with Foundation White.
Next I detailed the eyes with a spot of Foundation White in the corners to give an impression of reflection. I also lightly painted the Aquila with Silver again to pop up the details.
The Bolter was given the same treatment as the figure: a base color of Silver and Ultramarine, then a wash with Model Wash Black, then detailed painting with Ultramarine and Gunmetal Gray, then highlights with Sky Blue and Silver which were then toned down with a wash of Ultramarine and Gunmetal Gray.
I then went back to the figure to do clean-up like around the eyes and to lessen some of the preshades on the limbs. I also decided to redo the highlights with Sky Blue. Then I put on the decals on the shoulders. They were surprisingly opaque but didn’t really want to conform around the curves of the shoulders so I had to brush on a few layers of Mark Softer along with using a sharp knife to cut the decals so they can conform better. The last step was to then attach the Bolter.
And I’m done with the figure! Doing up the base is next.