Disappointingly, Tamiya left some visible ejector pin marks on the gear doors which need to be addressed.
Tamiya calls for some blue and silver colored parts inside the gearbay. Not sure how accurate this is.
The main undercarriage is designed to be installed from the beginning. While troublesome, the upside is a stronger fit.
The wings fit without problems. Tamiya also added leading edge tabs so it’s easier to keep them straight.
The exhaust nozzle is connected to a housing where some prepainting was required. This was masked off then attached to the kit.
The stabilizers are interchangeable on the F-16 and are identical. Even though it s simple pin and hole connection, Tamiya somehow engineered the pin to ‘click’ in place. While still requiring cement, at least they don’t flop around like on the Hasegawa kit.
There are some panel lines and vents that need filling on the kit. I’m quite sure these are present for the older F-16 blocks.
There is a very fine mold line running down the center of the canopy. I couldn’t unsee it so I went ahead to remove it.
I carefully scraped it off and then used progressively finer sandpaper to get rid of the mold line.
Once cleaned up it was dipped into a vat of Future to shine everything back up.
The nose and tailfin were then cemented into place.
I attached the intake rail for the Sniper pod and the HTS pod at this point figuring that they will be much harder to attach once everything is painted. I also masked off the nose gear bay.
For the main gear bay, I first masked off the walls then backfilled with some wet tissue. These will expand and fit (somewhat) snugly into the spaces in the bay once they dry. The main landing gear were masked off with a ‘Washi tape’ that I bought to try out. These seem to be less tacky than Tamiya masking tape. But I’ll have to test them out more.
Gap fixing is next and then I can start painting.
Next on the factory floor is this Tamiya kit which looks to be as shake and bake as it will ever get. This is the 2nd release where Tamiya added the pylons, underwing stores, armaments and targeting pods.
Checking the parts, I realized that by adding 1 component, I can model the F-16CM, an upgraded version of the venerable F-16CJ. Before that though, as usual, I have to assemble the cockpit first, which is quite nicely done. The kit comes with decals for the belts but I decided to make my own with 0.7mm masking tape.
Once painted, the seat doesn’t look bad at all.
But me being me, I decided to add some details using stretched sprue, plastic plates and rod. The green tank on the side of the seat is particularly prominent in pictures.
Looks better now IMO.
Then the seat was given a wash with Citadel Nuln Oil Gloss to give it some depth.
Once cured, I did some simple highlighting with a silver pencil. The cockpit looks sufficiently busy once painted, washed and weathered.
I’m not quite sure how visible it will be under the closed canopy though. Hah!
Like its 1/48 brother, Tamiya designed the intake trunking as 2 part top and bottom halves. The difference though is this one is not full length. The problem with designing it this way is of course the seamlines on the inside of both sides of the trunking.
I did the best I could to remove the seamlines till about 1/3 into the intake.
The whole intake is made up of 4 parts: the trunking, 2 side halves and a section up top.
These need to be prepainted but come together without much problems.
Again like its 1/48 brother, this kit also oddly leaves a small section on the back of the fuselage blank for an insert. I still can’t figure out why.
The fit is good but still, why have it an insert in the first place?
I’m modeling a CCIP (Common Configuration Implementation Program) upgraded Block 50 F-16CJ which the USAF would unofficially redesignate as the F-16CM. The most prominent part of this upgrade are the AIFF ‘bird slicers’ in front of the canopy and a 2nd mounting point for a targeting pod on the intake. These are all included in the kit.
The CCIP update also added the ability to carry the BRU-57 smart bomb rack. With this bomb rack, the F-16CM can consequently carry the CBU-105 WCMD (Wind Corrected Munitions Dispenser), the precision guided version of the CBU-97 cluster bomb and precision guided bombs like the GBU-38 JDAM (Joint Direct Attack Munition). However, the Tamiya kit doesn’t include these racks and munitions so I bought a resin aftermarket set of BRU-57s from Reskit.
Details are very nice and the casting is very sharp. It even includes very tiny parts made from photo-etch. Since these are so intricate and small I decided to keep my sanity and just go with installing the sway braces to the rack.
I decided to arm my CM with a pair of CBU-105 cluster bombs. The cluster bomb I have comes from a boxing of the Hasegawa F-15E Strike Eagle. These look to be CBU-100 Rockeyes and requires modifications to look like the CBU-105.
So I cut off the nose and sanded the remaining tip into a rounded bevel. I then added a small length of rounded rod on the tip. Based on the dimensions, my result is about 1mm shorter and 0.5mm narrower scale-wise than a true CBU-105. Close enough for me.
The resin BRU-57 rack is to be butt-jointed onto the kit pylon so I added a tab on the rack so it can slot into the hole inside the pylon. The fit will be more secure this way.
Not too shabby for an evening’s work. I’ll need to clean up the CBU-105s as pictures show that their bodies are quite smooth all round but I’m done tinkering with this.
Along with the AGM-88 HARM, the F-16 will have 2x AIM-120 AMRAAMs, 2x AIM-9X Sidewinders, 2x drop tanks, a centerline mounted ALQ-184 ECM pod, an AN/ASQ-21 HARM targeting system pod on the right intake mount and an AN/AAQ-33 Sniper targeting pod on the left intake mount. Definitely a heavily armed Viper.
Who knew a ‘shake and bake’ kit will require a multi-page build log? 😀
Once fully cured and wiped down, I sprayed another layer of gloss to prep for a panel wash.
This time I decided to do it with Vallejo Dark Grey Model Wash instead of the usual Mig AMMO panel wash. I figured this one will give a subtler effect.
I haven’t used it in a while so I thought to try on it on the wing first.
I first used the wash straight from the bottle but ran into a problem.
Once dried it was really hard to remove. I had to use a combination of Windex, Vallejo thinner and even an eraser before the excess Wash was removed. I was sweating bullets since there was a very good chance the Windex or thinner would strip the gloss and paint underneath.
The results however, look good. Model Wash definitely gives a less contrasty finish than Mig AMMO’s enamel washes.
So lesson learned, I went ahead with panel washing the rest of the kit. The Model Wash was thinned about 1:2 with water.
Given about 20 seconds to dry, I then wiped with a damp tissue in the direction of the wind so front to back.
Subtle but still makes a difference.
I like the overall effect. The panel lines are not too contrasty.
I’ve been wondering how much I should weather the kit but from photos I’ve seen, it looks like the JADSF keeps their aircraft clean so I went with just some griming of the area near the exhaust.
To seal everything in, I misted light coats of thinned flat coat over the colored areas and the exhaust area. The rest of the metal finish was left alone although I misted flat coat over the markings to knock their glossiness down. Final assembly is next. First, the landing gear. These fit using polycaps and every aircraft kit should really do it this way. It’s so much easier and strong.
The main strut is big and solid and the whole undercarriage assembly is simple enough.
Unfortunately, the way the small bay door fits onto the strut is not good. The instruction is not entirely clear how a small strut fits connects the door to the big strut and there’s no solid connecting point for it. I wouldn’t have minded some sacrifice in accuracy for an easier connection. So while faffing with it, I naturally fouled up and dropped a glob of cement on the small door which I have to repaint.
So after faffing with it a bit more, I got all the struts on, handpainted them and gave them a bit of wash. I also attached the MLG doors.
A light made of clear sprue is attached onto the nose gear, which looks sufficiently detailed.
Then I remove the masking tape to check the canopy. Could be better, but I’ll take it. I like how the aurora sticker on the HUD projector stands out.
Antennas and pitot tube is last on. I only managed to install the Temperature Probe (part R3) though. I pinged one of the really small AOA indicators (part U3) into the wild blue yonder so I cut my losses and left the other off. They are butt-jointed anyway so they wouldn’t attach that strongly in the first place.
The pitot tube needed some careful sanding and adjusting due to the nose being slightly damaged in the fall but still fit quite well.
The wings go on last and I’m done!
I begin with a gloss coat. I use AK Interactive’s Intermediate Gauzy, thinned 1:1 with water. There’s a tendency for gloss or flat coats to change the tone of metal paints but I’m glad to say that it works well with metal paints.
Markings will be from the TwoBobs ‘F-104J Komatsu Starfighters’ sheet. As usual with Twobobs, the quality is very good and the decals are thin yet strong. They reacted well with Mark Softer and the carrier film is so thin you can’t really see it unless you really look closely and only at some angles.
At this point, I realized I missed out on painting a part on the spine. The instructions call for a yellowish shade.
I carefully masked off the area and made sure no masking tape touched any of the surrounding decals.
The yellow is a mix of yellow and a brownish white color. I ended up having to remove the red decal closest to the yellow area. Luckily the TwoBobs sheet comes with enough stencils for 2 F-104Js so I have a replacement.
Unfortunately, the instructions weren’t too clear about the exact placement of the wing Hinomaru and the stencils around it. This is purely guesstimate on my part.
The intructions also didn’t indicate which Hinomaru to place on each side of the fuselage: they have different white stencil markings in them.
There were a few ports that needed to be drilled out with clear parts inserted. Turns out I had to drill them from the inside during construction so it was something I needed to address during finishing. Turns out though, all these spots were covered by decals so all the nice clear ports would have been covered up.
The F-104J is thankfully not stencil-heavy like the JASDF’s F-4 Phantom. What markings there are definitely showcases how striking they are though.
Weathering and finishing is next.
Painting the bare metal finish is next. I’ve had good results from the Vallejo Metal Color line which are acrylics, a more exotic choice than the usual lacquers like Alclad.
I begin by masking off the colored areas with masking tape and paper.
First on is Metal Color Aluminium.
The paint goes on easily when slightly thinned.
I then removed all the masking tape to check the work. Unfortunately I didn’t do a good job masking off the antiglare panel.
So after more masking, I repainted the dark green color. There were also minor spots that needed fixing which I settled at this point.
The fuel tanks were straightforward.
Based on photos I’ve seen, there are variations of color at the aft end of the fuselage so I’ll be trying to replicate it. I don’t have a reference photo of this exact F-104J I’m building so this is an artistic license call.
More masking. But I was concerned that the tape might lift the metallic paint so I made sure to stick the tape to my pants first before applying on the kit. The next color I used was Metal Color Duralanium for the left and right panels.
Once that has cured, I then masked these off and painted the middle panel Metal Color Dull Aluminium. I’m quite happy with the results. I think the middle panel should be darker but I’ll live with it!
I then attached the wings to check the work. The old school vibe is strong in this one…
Decals and finishing are next!