I’m looking forward to this one though I’m not quite sure why Arbalest is in a subdued color scheme. I think I really need to watch the latest Full Metal Panic series.
This one is coming in February @ 4,320 JPY. More pictures at Hobby Search.
Brand: Bandai HGUC 097
Media: Injection Plastic
Markings: Various aftermarket
Adopted in UC 0089, the RGM-89 Jegan is the Earth Federation’s general purpose mobile suit. Designed by Anaheim Electronics, the Jegan traces its lineage to the original RGM-79 GM and like the original, it’s only lightly armed with one beam saber, a beam rifle and a vulcan pod. For added firepower, it has three grenades and a shield with twin missile launchers. While lighter armed than the previous general purpose mobile suit RGM-86R GM III, its performance is significantly higher.
Due to its versatility, the RGM-89 and its many variants would go on to serve the EFSF for the next 30 years.
Info adapted from Gundam Wikia
First issued in 2009, this is a modern re-imagining of the Jegan (the original kit appeared in 1988) as it appeared in the anime movie Char’s Counterattack. Since this is a modern HGUC kit, it features modern color molding, snapfit assembly, good poseability and better proportions than the original. As a newer kit in the HGUC line, it doesn’t suffer from the stumpy look and overly large hands that plagued older HGUC kits. Parts breakdown are also nicely designed for it to be easily painted separately. As usual, stickers are provided which I pretty much ignore.
Building a Bandai kit nowadays feels like building a LEGO set: everything just fits. I added some minor details on the thighs, legs and inside the shield with plastic card and photoetch parts. I originally had more done but changed my mind and swapped out the modified parts and put back the original. I drilled 0.3mm or so holes all over the kit as a test to see how these added details look. I find that it’s a simple and quite effective way of adding details. I also added small nozzles from Kotobukiya onto the verniers.
Proportions-wise, I only lengthened the waist by about 1.5mm with plastic card. I also pretty much kept the kit uncemented the whole time as all the joint lines double as natural panel lines. I really like this attention to detail by Bandai with the newer kits. However, there are some obvious ones on the backpack binders and (as always) beam rifle. These were treated with filler and sanded down.
Colors & Markings
I decided to go with the standard color scheme this time round although I did go with a more subdued shade of all the colors. For example, I used a lighter green color than what’s on the lineart (which I affectionately call ‘puke green’). As I was able to paint this kit in its component parts I didn’t have to do much masking. I did have to handpaint the shield missiles and the grenades on the hip though.
The markings come from various sheets from Bandai and OEM stuff I bought throughout the years. The scorpion marking on the shield is from a HiQParts sheet. I think I used the wrong size for this. Oh well.
Weathering was kept light with a panel wash of dark brown followed by sponge chipping with dark brown paint and then various fading, filters and streaks with white and black oil paints. In hind sight, I should have added some exhaust stains but I’m moving on.
Once cured, everything was knocked down with a misting of AK ultra matt varnish.
Number 9 of 2018
Stan Lee died today and the world seems smaller now. His works has been such a big influence in most people’s lives: who on this planet doesn’t know Captain America, Hulk, Thor (the comics version), Iron Man and Spider-Man?
So good night Stan Lee. In your immortal words: Excelsior!
Brand: Nitto Nr. SF3D Series 5
Media: Multimedia (injection plastic, brass,
rubber, lead and copper)
Markings: Wave PKA Konrad
The new armored fighting suit of the Shutoral Forces, the PKA.G in opposition to the new weapon of the Mercenery troops, the Super AFS had more strengthened mobility and armored defensive power to a series of PKA.H and was armed with a laser gun we could see in a series of AFS of Mercenery troops in the left hand. Increase of the engine output reinforced walking system in order to cope with increase in weight made the form of the PKA.G quite different from a series of H. A little reconstruction of the body of the PK.41 made it possible to fly installing the PKA.G in it like a series of H and the XPK.43 for the exclusive use of the PKA.G took the first flight at the end of 2885.
Info from the back of the box
This kit was part of the original wave of releases by Nitto in 1984 when Maschinen Krieger was still called ‘SF3D Original’.
This is a multimedia kit. Besides the 90 or so styrene parts it comes with a piece of brass mesh, 2 metal springs, 2 brass rods, 2 pieces of copper wire, 1 piece of black wire and 2 lead weights for the feet. Options on the kit includes having the face plate opened or closed and 2 different pilot heads. The limbs are attached via polycaps so some posing is possible. The kit also comes with a Panzerfaust.
This kit is pure 1980s vintage. Cement is required everywhere and while there are polycaps the kit can’t be posed in any meaningful way. Unlike modern versions of Ma.K kits, this Gustav doesn’t come with rubber joint covers (which actually present their own problems). The joints are instead the old school 2 plastic halves clamping over a polycap. I ended up making joint covers with epoxy putty. This also helped with the kit keeping a pose. I also had enough leftover epoxy putty to fashion some cushioning for the pilot seat. There’s provision for an LED (not included) in the chest but I closed it up with a minus mold.
General fitting is OK but the legs flop around even with the polycaps in place. The brass rods slot through the springs and these, when bent properly, lets me fix the leg pose. I left out the lead weights for the feet since I’ll be drilling holes to pin the kit to the base.
Oh and the kit can’t hold the included Panzerfaust. Pity.
Colors & Markings
The pilot needed to be painted and fit inside the kit first. As a testament to how lousy I am with figure painting, I only managed to get a decent result after 4 tries. Luckily I was using acrylic paint so it was easy to strip and redo.
I went with a simple color scheme of dark gray with red bands this time. The markings are from the Wave PKA Konrad kit as the one from the box is yellowed, brittle and unusable.
Weathering is kept simple with my usual rounds of oil paint dot blending, panel wash, fading and pin washes. In this case, I went with a light gray and brown so they show up over the dark gray color scheme. Chipping and mild drybrushing was done with light gray and dark brown acrylic paint. Once mounted onto the base, I also added dust on the bottom half of the Gustav.
The base is kept simple like my previous Rally Pawn build. In this case, it’s a grass field instead of the lunar surface. Once attached, I don’t like how the kit looks like it’s hovering instead of standing with some weight on the ground. It’s something to fix in the next one.
Even though the kit is vintage, the build didn’t actually take too long but it was interrupted by a few weeks of traveling and general malaise after getting back. In any case, I like the result although I really need to work on figure painting. In fact, that’s the part that took the longest time in this build. Otherwise, even scratchbuilding the joint covers was quite easy.
As is now usual, I start with a base of black.
Next is a white marble coat.
The main color is Panzer Grey with red for the chevrons. These were sprayed slightly thinned so the marble coat shows through.
The decals come from the Wave PKA Konrad kit as the original Nitto ones have yellowed and were unusable.
For weathering, I went with oil paint dots of yellow, blue, white and red.
I randomly dot the whole kit with various colors then blend together with a brush soaked in turpentine.
I also used white to add streaks.
This method ties the 2 contrasting colors together. It also adds subtle variations to the overall paintjob and makes the whole thing look ‘lived in’.
Next I start to ‘beat up’ all the surfaces with various filters, washes, sponge chipping and streaks. The clear parts were also given a wash with white and dust colored oil paints to grime them up.
The base was done with various grades of sand from Woodland Scenics. These were painted with various shades of brown then given brown and dark gray washes. Tufts of grass were added to break up the monotony.
Once attached to the base, I did additional weathering with dust and brown colored pigments.
I gave the kit a half day to cure and misted a flat coat to knock down some of the remaining glossy areas. All done!