Decaling begins with a gloss coat. I’ve had very good results with AK Interactive Intermediate Gauzy Agent. With a 1:1 thinning with water, it gives a very shiny and smooth gloss without as many problems as other gloss coats I’ve used.
The markings comes from Cutting Edge Modelworks’ EF-111 Sparkvark sheet (CED72048). The sheet provides for 3 options with noseart and usually, modelers have gone for the squadron leader’s EF-111 which has a skunk riding a bolt of lightning. The other option is Tasmanian Devil from the Warner Bros cartoons while the last is a black crow (?) with ‘No Fear No Gear’ text in red over it. I decided to go with the last option. It’s the least colorful option but it has an interesting backstory to how this particular EF-111 got its name.
The decals were very easy to use: they slid off the backing very fast, reacted very well to Mark Softer and I was done in no time at all. On a sidenote: it’s a pity Cutting Edge is no more. These are seriously good decals. I decided to add the stars and bars on the bottom of the right wing although the instructions don’t indicate that it exists. After the decals have dried a bit, I went ahead and cut any parts that go over panel lines with a sharp X-Acto knife and flooded the area with more Mark Softer to get them to conform into the panel lines.
The wingtip slimelights pretty much refused to curve around the wingtips so I ended up cutting each in half, stuck the decal on each side and then painted the resultant gap in the middle with a (estimated) mix of yellow and white paint.
After a day to cure, I wiped the kit down with a wet towel and sprayed the decals over with more gloss coat to seal them in. After this new layer has cured, it was time for weathering. Looking at pictures online, a majority of them shows mildly weathered EF-111s and this includes the operational ones. So weathering on this kit will be kept to a minimal.
The wash is done with Raw Umber oil paint. As you can see, I’m not particularly neat about it. More important is that I get every panel line.
After giving it about 10 minutes to dry, I then carefully wiped the paint away with a damp tissue paper, leaving behind the wash that’s still in the panel lines.
I varied the amount I wipe away to add some filtering on random panels but nothing too drastic.
I hid some paint chipping by adding my own chipping using the oil paint neat and blending with a damp brush. I also made sure to wipe based on the direction of airflow across the aircraft. With that done it was again another day of curing for the kit.
Final assembly is now next. First up I attached the main landing gear. This proved a bit of a challenge and I had to add some shims to the joint area to get the angle correct. Everything was attached with superglue gel which gave me a bit of time to adjust each part.
The nose gear would be an easier fit. I also strengthened the nose gear by adding a pin to the attachment point. The landing gear were all then given a wash of very thinned PVA glue at their connections to (hopefully) reinforce the joints.
After the pitot tube was attached, I then sprayed a flat coat with AK Interactive Matt Varnish. This was also thinned about 1:1 with water with the resulting finish being more satin than flat. Then it was finally time to add the engine exhausts which I wanted to remain glossy. Unfortunately I wasn’t careful with trimming them: one still has a bit of sprue connector while the other I ended up trimming too much.
The photo below also clearly shows the tailfin not aligning straight on the tail. Oh there’s a seamline in the protrusion on the tail too. Chalk it up to carelessness.
After this is removing the canopy masking. I usually will have to do some cleanup on this and brush on more Future to bring back the shine on the canopy. The absolute last would be adding the formation lights on the wingtips and the wing gloves and I can call this one done.
I’ve been a big fan of Gary Wickham of ScaleSpot and is constantly amazed at his detailed work. In his 1/32 Mosquito build, he showed a method of breaking up the monotony of a single color scheme so I thought I’d try it here but in a simpler form. The first step is to spray random straight lines with white over the black primer base.
Going with a very thinned Mig AMMO Light Gray (2 parts paint 4 parts thinner) and a low pressure I then slowly painted the bottom. Each pass is very light and it takes 3 to 4 passes before I see the color appearing.
It took a while but when I was done I go a nice patchy look with a lot of variations in color. I ended up going 2 rounds with painting the bottom with a day to cure in between. Frankly I’ve never had to spend so much time painting 1 color but I like what I’m seeing.
The demarcation line between the 2 grays are solid so it was a simple matter of masking the bottom to prevent overspray.
I went with Vallejo Model Air US Grey for the darker gray shade in the same thinning ratio. Also like the previous gray, I ended up going through 2 sessions of painting with a day of curing in between.
In the beginning the two shades didn’t look much different. But given some time to cure, they became more distinct.
I like how the subtle variation shows through.
The leading edge of the tailfin is a different gray compared to the tailfin and photos I’ve found shows that no two Ravens have the same shade of gray for this. I decided to go with Game Color Stonewall Grey for mine.
I used the same color for the LERX (?). Last to be painted was the nose. Like the leading edge of the tailfin, the gray is different on various Ravens I’ve seen so I mixed a little AMMO Gunship Gray into Game Color Stonewall Grey for this one.
Painting is now done, which went smoother than expected. Because I was spraying very thinned acrylic paint, the airbrush tip didn’t dry as often as usual and clean up was also easier.
At this point, I’m not sure if the painting is over or under done. Guess I’ll only know when weathering begins.
Work continues as there’s more to fix than expected. First up is the joint between the 2 halves of the fuselage, which isn’t as smooth as I hoped. I should have added a spreader on the rear half so the transition between the halves is smoother.
I tried various methods including Perfect Plastic Putty, correction fluid and Future with baby powder but in the end, sthis last combination worked best. The baby powder dried the superglue instantly and added some volume. I then went to work using various grits of sanding sticks and sponges. The sponges were soft so they conformed easily around the curve of the fuselage which doesn’t change the gentle curve of the upper fuselage.
Quite a few rounds of sanding (and using paint to check my work) later, I scribed back all the panel lines that I had sanded away. With a combination of a sewing needle in a pin vise and the new TMP chisel I think I managed to do a decent job.
Another major area that needs work are the intakes. On both the intake and the fuselage are 2 halves of a small rectangular plate which needs to line up. I ended up shimming with 0.5mm plastic card and epoxy putty before I got them close enough to alignment.
I then trimmed both halves of the rectangle plate to get them to match them perfectly. Then it was more sanding and buffing to smoothen the shape of the intakes before I rescribed the panel line.
I then attached the tailfin which fit quite well and the horizontal stabilizers. The right side stab needed trimming on the connector to even slot in while the left one fit with no issues at all.
It was at this point that I realized that I had attached the bottom winglets in the wrong position! They are supposed to be further forward. Unfortunately there’s nothing I can do about them now. Fortunately though, they didn’t interfere with the main landing gear.
Detailing work is next with the GPS dome that is found on the EF-111s circa 1990s. I simply punched a 5mm circle out of a 0.5mm plastic card and cemented it in place. In hindsight, it’s probably too thick scale-wise. That’s OK though, I can live with it.
Before sealing up the canopy for painting I needed to attach the HUD for the pilot. I promptly pinged the clear kit piece off into the jungle that is my floor and had to replace with a scratchbuilt part. I ended up cutting a tiny piece out of a blister pack to get the HUD. This was attached with Gator Glue. Did I mention it’s really small?
The canopy curiously comes in 3 parts which has no option to open up. They were cleaned up, given a dip of Future, and given at least 24 hours to dry. Note in the photo below that there’s a yellow tint on the canopies. They are however colorless in real life.
A nice surprise is how well the clear canopy parts fit onto the kit.
With the canopy buttoned up, it is time to start painting. As per usual nowadays I started with black primer.
The main colors are next.
For my next build, I decided to tackle a modern aircraft. This time it’ll be the Italeri 1/72 EF-111A Raven or ‘Sparkvark’. The kit is a rebox of a release in the mid 1980s by Esci. Details are good for its age and features recessed panels.
The cockpit features decals for the restraints and the front console but the side consoles are bare so I decided to add some details with randomly cut plastic plates. These were painted Black Grey and drybrushed.
The details aren’t accurate and look oversized but I just wanted to make the consoles look busy. And they should look fine under the canopy.
Fitting overall is OK except for a few areas. First is the tail boom which angles down when attached. It should be straight. So I added some spacers at the bottom to get it to the right position.
The tail boom is originally attached via a butt joint. To strengthen it, I added a rod inside and used superglue. I then layered epoxy putty and shaped it as best as I can to conform to the curves of the structure.
There is a noticeable step under the stabilizers on both sides. Since I went to the trouble of fixing the tail, I thought I should fix these too.
Instead of using epoxy putty to fill and shape the gap I decided to just sand down the notch. Much easier.
More fixing of seamlines to come.