Brand: Bandai 0191406
Media: Injection Plastic
The X-wing is a starfighter used by the Rebel Alliance during the Galactic Civil War. It is so-named due to how it resembles an X when its S-foils are locked in attack position. It is armed with a laser cannon on each S-foil and proton torpedoes. X-wings are designed for dogfighting and long range missions and is capable of unassisted hyperspace jumps. Like most of the Rebel Alliance starships, the X-wing has deflector shields that greatly enhance its survivability in combat.
The X-wing starfighter is the backbone of the Rebel Alliance Starfighter Corps and was prominently featured in the Battle of Scarif, Battle of Yavin and Battle of Endor.
Info from Wookieepedia
Bandai’s X-wing starfighter is fully snap fit and features:
Out of the box, the markings only builds into Luke Skywalker’s Red Five from the Battle of Yavin.
Well, it’s a Bandai kit, so it snaps together perfectly with only a few seamlines. The only part that doesn’t fit perfectly is the clear canopy: I had to trim a bit on both parts before they snapped together.
Colors & Markings
At first, I was going to model this as Red Five. Then I watched Rogue One and thought I’d do this up as one of the Blue Squadron X-wings. But in the end, I went with modeling this X-wing as Wedge Antilles’ Red Two instead. Wedge is a fascinating character:
And yet, he barely had 10 lines of dialogue in the whole trilogy. Before Walt Disney bought the Star Wars license, Wedge’s story was expanded greatly (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Wedge_Antilles/Legends). Since the take over, he has been retconned as a young Imperial defector (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Wedge_Antilles) in the early days of the Rebellion.
So decided, I went ahead to research the markings for his X-wing during the Battle of Yavin. The 2 sources that I relied heavily on were:
I also came across some interesting facts about Red Two and the X-wings in general while researching.
Armed with the reference photos, I went ahead and masked and sprayed all the markings. I also handpainted Wedge’s helmet and his R2-A3 astromech based on the references.
For the base, I only used the Death Star surface plate and this was quickly painted over a black base, washed and drybrushed.
Since trying to replicate all the chips and streaks is an exercise in futility, I decided to go my own way with weathering. I did follow 1 prominent detail of Red Two which is a clean panel on the port upper nacelle. Weathering was handpainted chipping followed by panel wash and streaking with oil paint. I tried to go easier on the chipping and it seems to work out better than my Snowspeeder build.
In actual time spent, this kit didn’t take long to finish, but it was and on and off build between other builds so time-wise, it took a while. As usual with Star Wars kits, this was an immensely fun build with minimal fuss. Highly recommended for any Star Wars or sci-fi fan.
Number 6 of 2017
The following is a general step-by-step on how I finish my model kits. First up is a primer base oF black. I prefer black now over other colors because if I miss some areas later with the main colors, it’s pretty much instant shadowing. The final tones definitely don’t look the same compared to painting over brighter primers but I’m not that hardcore about color accuracy nowadays.
Nowadays I also like to add some tonal variations to the color scheme and have been turning to using white for this purpose.
Then it was a thinned coat of the main color. In this case it was Insignia White which is a very very light gray. I would have stopped here if this was a 1/48 scale kit, but the patchiness look over-scaled for 1/72.
So I went over with an even thinner coat of Insignia White.
I’m modeling Wedge’s Red 2 and based on reference photos, it has beige color accents all around the X-wing. These were all masked and sprayed. Note the chipped paint on the inside of the bottom s-foil. Sure looks natural doesn’t it? 😀
Next are the red markings which I also masked and sprayed. I based the dimensions of the chevrons on the s-foils from the decal sheet, which cames with Red 5 markings only. Why didn’t I just use the decals and cut off 3 bars to make Red 2? It’s because I wanted the red color on the wings and the nose to match. The nose stripes on the decal sheet weren’t unbroken as needed for Red 2. Red 5 also didn’t have red accents on the engine nacelles.
Weathering is next and I begin with chipping. Ever in need of practicing making chipping look random, I went ahead with chipping by handpainting.
I used a 000 brush to do all the chipping.
I ended up using 5 different colors for my chipping do show various ‘ages’ of the paint chips.
Then it was my usual wash with a very diluted raw umber oil paint. I then added some black to the wash and added darker streaks.
One last detail I added was a clean panel on the top port engine nacelle. There are pictures on the Internet that shows the studio model of Red 2 having this particular detail. This was simply masked off and carefully sprayed white. I then added some light chipping with light gray. This replicates a newer replacement panel which I think adds more to the look of a heavily used machine.
Another thing I tried to replicate was the look of ignited thrusters with combinations of red, transparent red and white colors. I’m not sure I pulled it off that well though. Anyway, it’s all a learning experience.
In any case, I’m done.
In the middle of getting bogged down with the fitting issues of my F-5, I decided to get this already snapfitted kit done. As usual, it was a joy to snapfit and 99% of it doesn’t require cement.
Out of the box, this builds into Luke Skywalker’s Red 5 from the Battle of Yavin, and it comes with both decals and stickers for everything. The only detail I added was drilling out the barrels of the laser cannons.
The only pre-painting I did was the pilot and cockpit. When I started this was supposed to be Red 5, so the pilot has the default white helmet.
I however, decided to make my life more difficult and build Wedge Antilles’ Red 2 instead. I found 2 sources online with references for Red 2, including the actual studio model. So armed with the correct color scheme, I first went ahead and repainted the pilot’s helmet into Wedge’s.
The cockpit was a mix of paint and decals with some light dry brushing.
Masking (lots of it), painting and weathering are next.
The New Rally Pawn is an update of the AFSSA E3C/E3CB Luna Pawn, which is the space variant of the land-based Armored Fighting Suit. The Rally Pawn addresses the main shortcomings of the Luna Pawn which are the relatively weak ceramic armor and lack of burners. Air circulation and motor efficiency are also improved. The nickname ‘Rally Pawn’ is in contrast to the original ‘Luna Pawn’, which has a reputation of being a one way ticket to the moon with little chance of coming back.
Info adapted from the back of the box
This kit is part of the wave (heh) of new releases by Wave Corporation when SF3D was revived as Maschinen Krieger ZbV 3000 (Ma.K in short) in the late 90s. While Wave reboxed some of the original Nitto molds, this is a new mold and is a 2015 rebox of the Luna Pawn which was released in 2006. It has new parts to build the (in-universe) upgraded Rally Pawn.
The parts are molded in pink. Yes. Really. They are also snapfit. While the original Nitto releases were multimedia affairs with copper wires, rubber and PE bits, Wave’s issues are all injection plastic with rubber used for the joints and hoses. It makes for a less detailed kit but in exchange it would make for a less fiddly build.
I don’t have a Luna Pawn kit to compare with but it looks like the parts for the Luna Pawn are all still in this box.
Right up front I have to say that it’s not really a snapfit kit in the vein of Bandai’s gunpla. Fitting isn’t great and there are noticeable seamlines when parts are joined together. Even snapping the parts together requires some finessing and I pretty much used cement on almost every part except the joints.
The joints themselves are made from a waxy rubber which resist any kind of painting. I decided to coat them with white glue to help with adhesion. It’s not a perfect solution as some of the glue peeled off. I’ll try something else for the next build.
Poseability is marginal. While not floppy, the joints aren’t meant for changing the kit pose repeatedly. But at least it’s not a static model.
Colors & Markings
I decided to go with a simple gray (Game Color Stonewall Grey) and blue (Game Air Sombre Grey) color scheme for this build and I went through my process in a previous post.
I have a general lack of skill in figure painting but I think it turned out OK. It helps that the visor covers most of the head though. I also scratched the visor with a buffing pad to add some wear and tear. As usual for me, markings are kept to a minimum.
Weathering-wise, I began with some sponge chipping and then added more by hand with various colors. Panel lining and wash (acrylic this time) was then added. I wasn’t very careful about this figuring that it’ll add more to the wear and tear’ look. Last on was some dusting on the feet and the right hand with Tamiya Weathering Masters. This was my first time trying this product and it worked easily although it disappeared under a flat coat. I had to redo most of the dusting.
I decided to make a small vignette and for this build, I tried out air dry clay to add some volume to the groundwork. While it was drying I pressed the feet of the kit onto the clay to simulate some weight that’s acting on the ground. The rest of the groundwork was done the same way as on my Stormtrooper build. At the last minute though I remembered that the Rally Pawn was deployed for space use so I did a thick drybrushing of gray color on the base. I think it turned out well although I think the moon surface would be a more uniform gray.
In any case, I’m done. This is my first Ma.k kit and while the build quality isn’t great, I quite enjoyed it. I’ll definitely build more of these.
Number 1 of 2017
This is the first time I’m painting a large-scaled head. The results aren’t great (the irises aren’t the same size) but I think it’s quite OK for a first effort. Plus it will be hidden under a helmet and behind a visor. Everything was done by handpainting and filtered with washes.
Next up decals. I went easy on the markings after a round of gloss coat on the kit. The fitting of the kit isn’t great with big seamlines everywhere but the decals went on very nicely and reacted very well with Mark Softer.
I then added chipping by slowly handpainting with Game Color Black, Mig AMMO Medium Gunship Gray and Vallejo Light Gull Gray. I tried my best to be random about the chipping. Not sure I really pulled it off though.
Then I added washes and filter using Vallejo Black Model Wash. It doesn’t flow as well as an oil paint wash but it turned out OK for this build.
I then added some dusting on the feet and hands using Tamiya Weather Masters but the effect was toned down after a coat of matt varnish to seal everything up.
Final assembly is next with the visor and helmet and doing up a base.